Some may say the trip of a life time! To retire from work for 2 years and travel the globe. Sounds very tough - NOT! Let us take you through our journey beginning with the Trans Mongoligan Railway from St. Petersburg to Bejing, China, South East Asia (Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, Malaysia), Australia, New Zealand, Fiji and South America, including Antarctica and the Galapagos! When will it end you may ask? Well that's when the money runs out, so lets wait and see.

30 April 2006

The Capital - Quito

In Quito we stayed for 5 nights at the Secret Garden Hostal. Although more expensive then we were used to, and you got stung by the 12% tax not only on top of the room price (which we were aware of) but also on all the food too, it did actually have a great atmosphere, beautiful top floor terrace overlooking the lights of the Old Town, really nice food for breakfast and dinners, and we got to meet heaps of travellers (that in hotels, we do not always get to do). Visiting the Basilica is a must, and climbing all the way up the clock tower. We took a day trip to climb Volcan Guayua Pichincha which is 4871 mtrs high. Unfortunately it was misty at the top and we were unable to see inside the 1km wide crater. But it was a good day out, and we managed to cross Rebeccas path once again (7th time in 8 months), so she came along. Visiting the Centre of the World - La Mitad del Mundo (not the other commericalised one, but the small one next door - where the actual correct equator line is, was really interesting. It does really work - if you pour water down a sink on either side of the equator it flows different directions and right on the line, it goes straight down. We did various different tests. I was a champ at balancing an egg on top of a nail - in quite good time - which meant Ian had to practice for ages, so that he could say that he did it as well!


The group of us that went to the Volcano from the hostel in Quito Posted by Picasa


Me and Rebecca at the top of Volcano Guagua Pichincha, near Quito Posted by Picasa


Ian using a blow gun (of which I must point out that I managed to hit the target the first time!) Posted by Picasa


My balancing of an egg on the end of a nail display - only 2 out of the 4 of us were able to do it! Posted by Picasa


Watching the water down the drain on the southern side of the equator. This is Kate who then travelled with us to Rio Bamba Posted by Picasa


Ian on the correct equator line, discovered by the technology of GPS! Posted by Picasa


The incorrect equator line - determined by a Frenchman, but only out by approx. 240 mtrs! Posted by Picasa


An arty shot from the hostel terrace overlooking the city lights Posted by Picasa


The Basilica in the Old Town of Quito Posted by Picasa


After climbing up the inside of the Basilica Posted by Picasa

26 April 2006

Our first town in Ecuador called Otavalo

Otavalo is reknown for its Saturday market. It is 95 kmns north of the capital of Quito. We managed to time it quite nicely, as we crossed the border from Colombia, to stay a night and walk around the HUGE market. Although interesting, the things being sold can also be found in Peru and Bolivia.

24 April 2006

Ecuador - some info.

Ecuador is the size of New Zealand and has some of the worlds most varied geography, due to the shifting tectonic plates, earthquakes and volcanic eruptions. It also has many more plant and animal species then much larger countries, due to the tropics. Ecuador has beaches, the Andean summits, the rainforest and the Galapagos Islands. The centre of the earth, being the equator, runs straight through the country. Since the year 2000, the US$ has been used as the countries economy. It is a poor country that exports its oil and bananas, and sees an unfair distribution of wealth. One example of this, is that the money made from tourism in the Galapagos, not a lot is put back into the islands and its growing communities.

16 April 2006

History of Colombia

Colombia was named after Christopher Colombus, although he never set foot on its soil. It was 1499 when it was discovered that the Indians had treaures of gold and stones, and it gave way to the myth of El Dorado, a mysterious kingdom abundant in gold. The Spaniards were obsessed with the myth, although they did not find anything. The Indians were believed to have a ritual of making offerings of gold into sacred waters, but also the Spaniards found very little in the lakes. It was in 1564 that a colony was formed, of indigenous communities, Spanish invaders and African slaves who worked the mines and plantations. It was actually during the 16th and 17th centuries that the African slaves surpassed the indigenous people in numbers. It was 1819 that Colombia won its independence, however, due to political currents in the 19th century the country experienced 8 Civil Wars, and in 1885 alone there were more than 50 anti government insurrections. In 1899 the Liberal revolt turned into a full blown civil war, with 100,000 dead as a result. Of course the USA became involved in 1903, taking advantage by creating an independent republic, which seems to have created relative peace until 1948 when the struggle between the Liberals and Conservatives broke out - La Violencia - with a death toll this time of 300,000. It was one of the bloodest conflicts in the western hemisphere, comparable only to the Mexican Revolution and the American Revolutionery War. In the 40s and 50s there was generations of hatred and mistrust against an opposing political party that the rapes and murders, particularly in the rural areas began. And some groups of Liberal Guerillas began to demonstrate a dangerous degree of independence. It was 1953 when both policital parties supported a military coup to retain power and pacify the countryside. It was the only military intervention the country had experienced in the 20th century. The 2 leaders signed a pact to share power for the next 16 years, alternating the presidency every 4 years. This however repressed any political voice of the people, and there was the emergence of perhaps a dozen different guerilla groups, each with their own ideology and political and military stategy. You may have heard of FARC, ELN and M-19. The FARC was founded in 1964 as a military wing of the Communist Party, being pro Soviet. ELN was founded the following year by urban intellectuals inspired by Fidel Castros communist revolution, orginally pro-Cuban, but later became a hardline Christian Marxist group headed by former Spanish priests. Originally supported by Moscow and Havana they both relied on extortion, robbery and kidnapping to finance their struggle. Heavily involved in drug production and trading, they have largely lost their ideological and political goals. In 2002 the USA and EU included them on their list of terrorist organisations. Colombia is the worlds largest producer of Cocaine, controlling 80% of the global market. The 80s were the boom years led by Pablo Escobar. He was elected to congress in 1982, and by 1983 he was estimated worth was US$2 billion, making in one of the richest criminals. In the same year the government launched a campaign against the drug trade. The cartel bosses offered to pay Colombias entire foreign debt - US$13 billion. But when it was turned down a war broke out in 1989, with the cartel responding violently. While the government tried to catch an escaped Escobar, other drug cartels managed to diversify into opium, poppies and heroin. In 1995 the cartels largely dismantled. In 1998 the Independent Conservative government gave the FARC a 42,000 sq km demilitarised zone the size of Switzerland. But when they tried to reclaim it again in 2002, the FARC was well established. The current President Alvaro Uribe is an Independent hardliner. In 1983 his father was assassinated by the FARC, he has survived 15 assassination attempts on his own life, before his post, including 3 serious attempts during his actual presidential campaign. He is strong anti guerilla! NOW: There is heavy military presense on the roads, with check points at least every 5 kms. A lot look quite young and they carry huge guns. The guerillas have been pushed into the deep jungle of the east. However the military are not large enough, so there is a private para-military that helps keep order. However they have been likened to the guerillas at times. We heard though that farmers are willing to give the para-military money to protect them. We did not have any problems, we did not have our bags searched at all, and our buses were only stopped on a couple of occasions to check IDs. However the military will randomly stop cars and vechiles to search and check IDs. There seems to have been big changes since the current president was elected.

12 April 2006

Heading down the west side of Colombia

Medellin is the second largest city in Colombia. Apart from a quick look around the centre of the city and the Artist Boteros robust sculptures in public view, it rained, so we spent most of our time at the really good set up Black Sheep Hostal - run by a Kiwi. On recommendation we then stayed out of the city of Pereira at Finca Villa Maria (finca meaning farm), that grew coffee and bananas. Unfortunately there we no other guests at the time, as the staff were abit scared of talking to us with our limited Spanish. But the place was beautiful, loads of plants and flowers that attracted the birds, especially Hummingbirds, and a baby tucan. We spent much time by the pool, and taking a walk in the hillside. The city of Armenia has Parque Nacional Cafe, which is a coffee theme park, which houses a museum, amusement rides, and a day full of activities. It was the Easter weekend that we went, so we were not prepared to stand in the huge lines to get on any of the rides. It was still an enjoyable thing to do though. We also visited Valle de Cocora where the wax palm trees are found (best place in the world apparently). They are able to grow above 2500 metres in altitude, grow up to 60 metres, and have a life span of 200 years. The town of Cali is famous for its beautiful women, sport and salsa music. It is the 3rd largest city in the country. We visited the Museo Arqueological Le Merced, which was a former convent. We also took in the popular Juan Chitos nightclub, and danced until 6am. Now that hardly ever happends. Being the only Westerners we created some attention. Popayan is one of Colombias most beautiful colonial cities. Due to the Easter weekend, there were parades of tiny children dressed in costume carrying the 12 stations of the cross, through the streets. Very cute! It is from here that you can visit both San Agustin and Tierradentro, two very important archaelogical sites, for statues and underground burial chambers. We were lazy and decided not to visit them. The 5 odd hours and dirt roads did have a lot to do with putting us off the once enthusiastic idea. We stopped in the city of Pasto to visit the volcano and lake. Well the Volcan Galera at 4267 mtrs is currently active, so we were unable to climb it, and I was unwell, so Ian went to the Laguna la Cocha on his own. He did a boat trip to the island, and thought it would be one of those lovely, quiet places to stay for a few days, but is not mentioned in the book, so you would not think of doing any more than a day trip. At the border crossing town of Ipiales there is a beautiful church to see. Santuario de las Lajas is a neo-gothic church built on a bridge spanning a deep gorge over a river. It was erected to commenorate the appearance of the virgen in the 18th century. The back of the inside of the church is the rock wall, there are loads of plagues along the alley stating miracles that have happened to people, and old and used crutches and braces that have been left. Quite spectacular. It is literally the only thing to do in the town, so we did this on our way through to Ecuador.

11 April 2006


More examples of Artist Botero work, in Medellin. This bird was destroyed by a bomb. So they left it there and put up another one. Posted by Picasa


An example of Artist Botero work, in Medellin Posted by Picasa

10 April 2006


Going for our walk amongst the coffee plantation Posted by Picasa


The farms pool Posted by Picasa


The Coffee Farm. Relaxing in the hammock Posted by Picasa

09 April 2006


The Coffee National Park. Ian scaling the climbing wall Posted by Picasa


The Wax Palm trees Posted by Picasa


Easter Weekend Military road safety talk on our bus Posted by Picasa

07 April 2006


The Easter (Semana Santa - Holy Week) parade in Popayan Posted by Picasa

06 April 2006


The church near the border town of Ipiales Posted by Picasa

05 April 2006


The many miracles have been noted here Posted by Picasa